Jane Austen Day! Part 2, Winchester (18-25)

Winchester Cathedral,       April 30, 2018

We drove the 20 miles from Chawton to Winchester to see the cathedral. After finding parking in the narrow winding streets of the cathedral town, we walked a few blocks toward the cathedral.

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Walking toward Winchester Cathedral entrance

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Interesting wall in the courtyard

The enormous size and architectural details on the outside of the cathedral are amazing:

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North side of Winchester Cathedral

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Closer view

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Passage under the flying buttresses

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Main entrance, Winchester Cathedral

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Exterior stonework

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Gargoyles

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Entry detail

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Entry detail

Once inside, we continued to marvel at scale and detail beyond comprehension: the high ceiling, the carved stone and wood, the arching windows.

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The main aisle

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Detail of upper windows

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A side aisle

As a quilter, I was especially drawn to the patterns in the medieval floor tiles.

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The Jane Austen exhibit had placards describing her life and the monuments that have been installed in her honor near her grave.

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Jane Austen window and monuments in Winchester Cathedral

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Jane Austen’s grave

 

Building stone:

Walking back toward our parking space, I particularly noted the texture and stone in the walls along the street –

which brought to mind the chalk and flint cliffs we had seen at Seven Sisters:

Chawton

Back in Chawton, we stopped for dinner at the local pub, The Greyfriar,

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then spent another night at the Garden House B&B, formerly a gardener’s cottage on the Chawton House estate, though thoroughly modernized since that time. The setting up on the hill was lovely, the gardens were flowering.

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Garden House B&B

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Sheep!

We just happened to be here during a storm so didn’t get to explore much of the outdoor beauty, but all in all it was a satisfying day! Tuesday we were off to our next stop – Lyme Regis, to see fossils and the steps on the Cobb where Louisa Musgrave fell.

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Jane Austen Day! Part 1, Chawton (18-24)

Day 5, Part 1:  Monday, April 30, 2018   Chawton

My top goal when planning this trip to England was to see Jane Austen’s house and quilt. The plan was to walk around Chawton to see her house, the large mansion and church at the center of her brother’s estate, and the gardens and paths in the area where the Austens would have regularly walked while living here.

Jane Austen’s House Museum

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This red brick house in the heart of Chawton holds many items that belonged to Jane Austen or her family members, as well as other pieces from the Regency period that create the ambiance of her daily life. Signs explain what was original and what changes have been made since her time. The tour is self guided, with knowledgable docents that answer questions.

Timeline and Family Tree:

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Furnishings:

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Jane Austen’s writing table

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Jane’s Father’s desk

Wallpaper:

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Portraits:

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Quilts:

Seeing the original quilt was a highlight of the entire trip. Having spent the past five years making a reproduction of this quilt, I really appreciated being able to sit in the room and admire the colorful though faded fabrics and tiny stitches, and think of the three pairs of hands that sewed this masterpiece. I considered the many hours involved in choosing fabrics, cutting, stitching, and keeping track of the quadrilateral symmetry of placement of all those tiny diamonds (more than 2500). More detailed information is available on the museum website.

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Center medallion

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Two community-made tribute quilts completed in 2018 are on view – a paper pieced patchwork quilt placed on a bed,

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and an appliquéd topical quilt honoring aspects of Jane Austen’s life and work:

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It was difficult to get a good photo of this quilt because it is hanging in the room showing the video of Jane Austen’s life, but thorough documentation can be found on the museum website blog.

Jewelry:

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Kitchen:

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View out the bedroom window:

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Gardens:

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After making a few purchase in the gift shop, we went on to:

Chawton House

We walked up the long drive to Chawton Great House,

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now used as a museum and center for women’s literature and writing workshops. We had a delicious lunch in the tearoom,

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then walked through the house. The textile furnishings in the dining room were colorful.

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The upstairs docent showed us this nook where Jane Austen used to sit and write while visiting family.

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From the windows we could see the surrounding land and the adjacent church.

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St Nicholas Church

The church next door is where the local families attend services. Jane’s sister Cassandra and mother are both buried in the churchyard here.

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St Nicholas Church

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Graves of Jane Austen’s mother and sister, both named Cassandra.

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Unfortunately, the weather continued blustery and rainy, so we abandoned our plan for a walk and drove twenty miles to visit Winchester Cathedral and Jane Austen’s grave. To be continued in the next blog post…

Cape Horn again, June 16th, 2018 (18-23)

Cape Horn Trail, Washington,  June 16, 2018,  (Hike # 37)

We hiked the upper section of the Cape Horn trail, from Strunk Road to the Waterfall Overlook, with stops at the Nancy Russell Overlook. The last of the larkspur and lupine were hanging on. Prolific flowers were cow parsnip, tiger lily, candy flower, columbine and penstemon. 3.5 miles, 600 feet. Previous hikes: May and November, 2107.

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Upper trail

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Into the woods

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Tiger lilies and cow parsnip

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Waterfall

The views:

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East along the Columbia River toward Beacon Rock

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West toward Sand Island

The flowers:

CRAFTING

I’ve turned the heel on the first of the Cornwall socks:

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I began the Jane Austen House cross stitch kit, a souvenir from my visit there in April.

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GARDEN

We have planted tomatoes, basil, jalapeño, cucumber and parsley – time tested and always consumed in our household.

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Garden flowers in bloom:

Astoria, Oregon; London Museums (18-19)

Memorial Day weekend visit to Astoria, Oregon

May 26-28, 2018   A family member was camping at Fort Stevens State Park, so we made plans to stay in Astoria for a couple of nights and visit them. On Saturday we took a short walk to Coffenbury Lake from the campground.

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Coffenbury Lake, Fort Stevens State Park

It was a beautiful evening, so we headed north to Clatsop Spit for a picnic on the beach, then visited several viewpoints to admire the clear views in every direction. We looked back toward Astoria, north toward Washington and Cape Disappointment, and west to the jetties that bound the shipping channel over the Columbia Bar.

By sunset we made our way to the beach where the Wreck of the Peter Iredale slowly rusts away in the surf. This is an iconic Oregon landmark we had never visited, so I was glad to finally see it profiled against a colorful sky.

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Sunday morning we drove across the Columbia River on the Astoria-Meglar Bridge to Washington.

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We had once visited Cape Disappointment on a disappointingly foggy day. Today was sunny and clear. We took the short hike to the lighthouse and the Lewis and Clark Visitor Center.

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Lewis & Clark Visitor Center

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North Jetty

Lewis and Clark made it to this point, but did not recognize the mouth of the river because of the wide expanse of the estuary.  We had beautiful views today, and interesting exhibits, including a decommissioned fresnel lighthouse lens – always so fascinating to look at.

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Wallflowers and north jetty

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Looking back toward the lighthouse

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Map view of the mouth of the Columbia River

Later in the day we returned to Astoria and bought some fresh spring Chinook salmon to BBQ at the campground with our family members.

Monday we took a stroll along the waterfront in Astoria.

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View to Washington

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Cormorant on old pilings

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Old pilot car

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Pacific nine bark

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Waiting for salmon to bite

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Looking back up hill to the Astoria Column

We stopped to eat our lunch at Youngs River Falls before returning home.  A pleasant weekend getaway.

England Trip Report Part 2

Day 2: London, Museums in the rain          April 27, 2018

A rainy day. It was only two tube stops to the Victoria & Albert Museum in South Kensington. We didn’t even have to leave the underground – a long tunnel leads to the museum entrance. When we visited in 2011, the textile exhibit had been undergoing renovation, and I was hoping to see it this visit. But it turns out that there is no longer a textile wing. Textiles are scattered throughout the museum in various exhibits. Some highlights of our viewing:

From the Europe 1600-1815 Gallery:

And two drawing room spinning wheels:

The museum entrance has a domed ceiling with a fabulous Chihuly Glass Sculpture:

Medieval/Renaissance Sculpture Gallery

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There is a Fashion Through Time exhibit:

Upstairs galleries are devoted to Ironwork, Glass, Ceramics and other decorative arts:

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And Queen Victoria oversees all:

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We grabbed a sandwich in the museum cafe. It was still rainy outside, so we went next door to the Natural History Museum.

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This is a huge complex – one could never see it all, but we took in some dinosaurs:

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We would see more of Mary Anning’s work later when we visited Lyme Regis.

Architectural details throughout the museum inspired by Natural History:

The enormous Hintze Hall:

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and the Dodos.

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There were tons of people and it was a bit overwhelming, but I enjoyed seeing the exhibits.

The rain had let up, so we continued walking north, past the Royal Albert Hall, the Albert Memorial,

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Royal Albert Hall

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Albert Memorial

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and on to the gardens outside Kensington Palace.

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Kensington Palace

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Victoria again

This happened to be the day the name of new baby Prince Louis Arthur Charles was announced, so there was a small press pool camped out in their compound. We continued walking until we found ourselves at the Queensway station. We took the tube back to our lodging, refreshed, then found a nearby Indian restaurant for our dinner.

London, Day 3:  Jane Austen’s portrait and more walking            April 28, 2018

One of my goals for this trip was to see the Jane Austen portrait at the National Portrait Gallery in Trafalgar Square. Off we went on the tube to Leicester Square, followed by a short walk to the museum. We found the portrait exhibited in a specially lighted cabinet. It is the only existing picture of Jane Austen made during her lifetime – hard to imagine in these selfie days. The portrait is small and the pencil lines are faded. It was drawn by her sister Cassandra in 1810 when Jane was 35 and Cassandra was 37. I appreciated getting to spend several minutes looking at her as she was seen by the person who knew her best in the world.

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Jane Austen Portrait in special case

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We then took some time to explore the rest of the museum – an excellent walk through the faces of British history. As with any museum, one can’t see everything, but these portraits caught my eye:

Three views of Queen Elizabeth I:

 

The only American in the museum:

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George Washington

Some of my favorite authors:

 

 

Recent royalty:

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Queen Elizabeth II

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Princess Diana

After stopping for lunch in the National Gallery Cafe,

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National Gallery

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Trafalgar Square

we decided to walk across the Thames again on the Hungerford Bridge,

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then walk east along the south bank as far as the Millenium Bridge. It was a busy Saturday – a bit overwhelming how many people there are in London at any one moment. Every language and ethnicity, especially in the tourist areas.

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Mural hiding a construction site on the river

We crossed back to the north on the Millenium Bridge,

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Tower Bridge

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Non-orthagonal buildings on the skyline

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the Shard

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St Pauls ahead

but then felt too tired to attempt St Paul’s,

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St Paul’s Cathedral

which we had visited in 2011, so we wandered back toward Blackfriars, and took the tube back to Victoria from there.

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Looking back under the Millenium Bridge: Shakespeare’s Globe and the Tate Modern Museum

We found an Italian restaurant nearby – most of the patrons were getting ready to see Wicked or Hamilton playing at the two nearby theaters.

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Victoria Palace Theater – we saw Billy Elliot here in 2011.

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Typical tube scene

We had accomplished our sightseeing goals for London, had somewhat adjusted to the time shift, and were ready for the next phase of our journey  – on to Brighton by train, then further exploration of southern England by car and trail.

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