Sisters hiking interlude…

June 28 to July 1, 2020 –

We escaped to Sisters, Oregon, about a three hour drive from home, for a few days of hiking. Our motel room was self contained, we brought all of our own food, and chose uncrowded trails during the week to satisfy pandemic safety concerns for ourselves and others. The trip was successful! It was wonderful to get out of our neighborhood and into the mountains we love so dearly, to see so many wildflowers and mountain views, and to hike both new and familiar trails.

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Cone Peak Meadows June 29, 2020

Famous for wildflowers! We hiked in the fog most of the day – few views, lots of flowers, including some new to me. We didn’t go up to the Iron Mountain Lookout because of the fog, but did hike the entire loop for the first time. (Hike #48, 6.6 mile, 1300 feet)

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Trail map

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Rocky outcrops above the forest slopes were covered with blooming larkspur, Oregon sunshine and blue gillia.

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Lower Cone Peak meadows in the fog.

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Lunch view.

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Fog rising, Cone Peak almost visible.

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Upper Cone Peak Meadows – death camus, larkspur, paintbrush and more.

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Crossing the upper meadows.

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Forested section just north of Iron Mountain.

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Foggy glimpse of Iron Mountain, which we decided not to climb.

Prolific wildflowers in the meadows and forests!

Tam McArthur Rim, June 30, 2020

A favorite hike, often very crowded, was pleasantly unpeopled today. Also, not as windy as expected, and the views of the Three Sisters and Broken Top were stunning from our endpoint – the 7950′ red cinder ridge that leads to Broken Top. We lost the trail briefly in some of the snow patches, but the wide open volcanic landscape made it hard to actually get lost.  Hike #49, 8 miles, 1500 feet.

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Ascending above Three Creeks Lake. That sharp prow on the left  is the overlook.

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Enjoying our lunch view of Broken Top and the Three Sisters from the overlook, while not feeding the chipmunk.

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All the chipmunk got were some close up photos.

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Three Creek Lakes from the overlook.

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We hiked on across the high plateau to the ridge, crossing a few snow patches along the way.

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View from the saddle of the red cinder ridge.

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Our endpoint – the top of the red cinder ridge. Broken Hand and Broken top seem just a few steps further…

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Broken Top and South Sister.

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Three Sisters

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Middle and North Sisters, and the clouds sitting on the Cascade peaks to the north.

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Our trail across the high plateau, back to the lookout.

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We stopped again at the lookout before heading down.

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Western pasque flowers and heather near the lookout.

McKenzie Pass and Clear Lake, July 1, 2020

We drove up to the Dee Wright Observatory at McKenzie Pass, one of my favorite places on the planet, to look at the volcanic landscape and hope for some views. The clouds wafted away from some of the peaks briefly, though the bitter wind was not hospitable to hanging around.

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Black Crater from the observatory.

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The Belknap Craters

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North and Middle Sisters appeared briefly.

We also stopped at Clear Lake, hoping to see the submerged fossil forest under the turquoise clear waters we have heard so much about. We could not see it from the trail. We did find the Great Spring, from which the McKenzie River is born, and a few new flower sightings. We will have to come back and rent a boat to see the underwater forest. (Hike #50, 5 miles, 200 feet).

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Turquoise blue Clear Lake from the trail

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The ripples near the bank are where the water emerges as a spring from under the lava flows.

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Another view of the Great Spring.

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My first time seeing candystick, one of the more unusual flowers in the western Cascades forests.

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Candystick

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Twinflower

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Pink pyrola

Knitting

I brought my latest traveling socks on the trip, and they are finished!

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Hermione’s Everyday Socks, pattern by Erica Lueder, made from Red Heart – Heart and Sole yarn in the Bayou colorway.

Everything that is happening right now-

I keep hearing this expression on the airwaves, to describe the intersection of pandemic, political chaos and antiracist activism. I have been reading the book Me and White Supremacy by Layla F. Saad, journaling about the prompts, and discussing the ideas with my family. I feel not exactly guilty, but impatient, with myself and the world for having accepted a racist society as status quo for so long.

Late Summer Adventures Part 3 – Three Sisters, Oregon (18-40)

Rest Day    9-14-2018   Whychus River Overlook

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I slowly walked the easy one mile loop (#51) and contemplated distant views of mountains and close up views of the high desert forest. My legs were not up for much more today. Dan hiked down to the river and wandered there for a bit.

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Nearly flat trail through the Ponderosa forest

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Looking down to Whychus Creek

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Middle and North Sisters

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Mt Washington, Pole Creek Fire forest

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Rabbit brush

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Manzanita

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Manzanita bark

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Manzanita leaves

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“Little apples”

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Ponderosa

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Sage

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Sky

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Whychus Creek recovery team logo

 

Back in town I visited The Stitchin’ Post, a wonderful quilt store.

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Window display

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Window display

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I bought a small package of Australian-themed fabric.

On a related note, we enjoyed having a Double Wedding Ring quilt on the bed in our lodge room.

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Tam McArthur Rim    9-15-2018     (#52)

This trail provides another entrance point to the Three Sisters Wilderness, from the east toward Tam McArthur Rim along a ridge that leads toward Broken Top. We had hiked this trail in September two years ago on a clear day. Today we watched clouds cover the peaks, lifting occasionally for views. By the time we reached the top, a bitter wind was beginning to blow and the cloud cover was increasing. We didn’t stay long.

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Tam McArthur Rim and Three Creek Lake as seen from the trail

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Broken Top appears as we cross the upper plain

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Almost to the top, with Little Three Creek Lake below

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Middle and North Sisters from the End of Trail overlook

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Broken Top and South Sister from the overlook

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Closer view of the glaciers on Middle and North Sister

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All three Sisters, with clouds

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North view beyond Tam McArthur overlook. Pole Creek fire burn zone in the foreground; Black Butte beyond.

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Late blooming lupine

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Neon lichen

Lookback to our hike in September of 2016 to compare the views:

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Middle and North Sisters, September 2018

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In September 2016, on a clear day

We hiked about 5.5 miles/ 1200 feet today.

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Back to Dee Wright/Mckenzie Pass at sunset

We took our last opportunity this year to spend a little time at the lava lands of Mckenzie Pass – and one of my favorite places in the world. Despite the cold wind we wanted to see the sunset. The Sisters were still covered in clouds, but as the lowering sun streamed in from under the western clouds, Black Crater lit up a bright, ethereal red orange that seemed magical. To the west, the streaky clouds glowed pink and gold.

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Lenticular cloud over Mt Washington

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Black Crater at 7:01 pm

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Black Crater at 7:04 pm

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Clouds continue to hide North and Middle Sisters

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What North and Middle Sisters look like – from September 2016

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Sunset colors to the west

A fitting end to our late summer adventures – back to Portland tomorrow.

 

 

Late Summer Adventures, Part 2 – Crater Lake and the Obsidian Trail (18-39)

Crater Lake 9/12/2018

We left Boardman to drive to Sisters, Oregon for another few days of hiking. The webcams at Crater Lake National Park showed the smoke haze had mostly lifted, so we added a side trip to see Crater Lake.

We had been to Crater Lake about 20 years ago, but our visit that summer was early in the season and there was too much snow to do much more than admire the view from the one small area that was accessible. It has been a goal to return and hike down to the lake, take the boat to Wizard Island, and hike to the many viewpoints around the lake. We were foiled again this year by the extremely bad air quality that was present during the time we had planned, but at least we got to see the views on a nearly clear day and admire the absolutely blue water.

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Discovery Point – first view of the lake and a sign showing what Mt Mazama looked like before the eruption and collapse that created Crater Lake.

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Close view of Llao Rock; Mt Thielson in the distance.

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Wizard Island

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South view to Garfield Peak

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Wizard Island and Mt Scott beyond

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Crater at the top of Wizard Island

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The tropical blue water in the shallows around Wizard Island

Obsidian Trail 9/13/2018

We have stayed in Sisters, Oregon several times, but have yet to explore all of the trails in the area. This was our first time to hike in the Obsidian Area of the Three Sisters Wilderness (#50) (12 miles, 2000 feet).

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The first few miles are through forest, including part of the 2017 Milli Fire burn zone.

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Obsidian trail

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Bear Grass and huckleberry foliage

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Sims Butte through the Milli burn zone

At about 3.5 miles, the trail ascends over and through a lava flow, with views to the Obsidian Cliff and to North and Middle Sisters – though today the Sisters were hiding in clouds.

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Trail up the lava flow

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Obsidian Cliff with burned forest above

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Trail through the flow

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White Branch Creek on the other side

The trail continues up through forest, meadows and past interesting rock formations.

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Middle Sister in the clouds

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Late summer pasque flower meadow with Obsidian Cliffs beyond

Next we reached Obsidian Falls.

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Beyond the falls is a high basin with a spring and a pond between a craggy cliff and an Obsidian flow.

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A bubbling spring at the base of the cliff

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Another spring

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A pond

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Dan photographing the Obsidian flow

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Obsidian flow

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Closer view of the obsidian

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obsidian

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conchoidal fracture

Over the dividing ridge is another pond.

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We continued around the loop to cloud obscured views of North and Middle Sister, a good view of the Little Brother, and a view down to Glacier Creek.

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The Little Brother

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Glacier Creek, cloud obscured Sisters

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The Little Brother

The trail descends to Sunshine Meadow along White Branch Creek.

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Mt Washington and the Belknap Craters from the trail

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Huckleberry lined path to Sunshine Meadow

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The last magenta paintbrush in Sunshine Meadow

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and an obscured view of the Sisters

We continued down the Glacial Way, back over the lava flow

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Lava flow ahead

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Clearest view of the day of Middle and North Sisters

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Fall colors

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Collier Cone – a future destination.

and back through the burn zone to the trailhead,

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which, after twelve miles for the day, I was very glad to see.

Sparse but welcome wildflowers today:

 

Dee Wright Observatory

We had to drive over Makenzie Pass to return to the town of Sisters at the end of the day, so we stopped for a quick overview:

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Dee Wright Observatory

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Belknap Craters and Mt Washington to the north.

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Cloud covered North and Middle Sisters to the south.

Smoky week in Portland / Return to Vista Ridge (18-35)

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Northward view from the Timberline Trail on Mt Hood. Mt St Helens, Mt Rainier and Mt Adams float above the gray smoke layer.

August 16, 2018

I mailed the baby and Welcome Blanket quilts while breathing wildfire smoke. While feeling a papery dry sand feeling in my mouth. While watching the blood red sun set though the haze.

Today there is an orange sky at noon. It is too hot to go outside, and there is an ashy taste on my tongue.

It’s wildfire season.

Smoke is disseminated through the atmosphere blotting out the sun, the views, and the cool air we are supposed to get from the ocean.

If this keeps up, if  global temperatures continue to rise, will we find out what it was like to be the dinosaurs when they died?

It was supposed to be a meteor, but there were also Deccan flood basalts, and/or a climate change with wild fires – all valid hypotheses and maybe all had a combined role…

Meanwhile, oppressive haze and heat keep me indoors instead of outside where I could be walking, hiking or gardening.

The air feels dusty and my lungs feel the burn –

It reminds me of the San Fernando Valley of my youth, before cars had smog devices, when we could hardly ever see the Santa Monica Mountains, or the San Gabriel Mountains, but on really bad days we couldn’t even see the Mission Hills.

Now we have fire season. Our beautiful forests burn and the smoke infiltrates our adjacent valleys, so even though we are not in the burn zone, we must breathe the smoke or alter our activities to avoid breathing outside. This is the second August in a row that has been the season of burning, of wildfires, of dreading the views of the torched landscape, not to mention the threat to lives and livelihood of those that live closer to or in the forest. Of knowing that the beautiful places that we hike into for recreation and healing are changed beyond recognition, and though they may return to green someday, they will not be a comforting place to go for years….

Return to Vista Ridge    8/17/18     (Hike # 44)

Speaking of burn zones – this is our sixth year hiking up Vista Ridge on Mt Hood.  Today the regional smoke and heat have decreased enough to allow us to go for a hike.

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Pearly everlasting and fireweed along the Vista Ridge trail.

Once again through the burn zone with fireweed and pearly everlasting, huckleberries, goldenrod and berries of Sitka mountain ash.

Once again through the meadows along the Timberline Trail, this time to the west, toward Ladd Creek.

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Mt Hood from the Timberline Trail near Wyeast Basin

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Close up of Coe and Ladd Glaciers

 

By the time we reached the Ladd crossing it was too late in the day, too deep to cross without wading.

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We stopped there for lunch then retraced our steps, back to the Wyeast basin with far reaching views of snow capped peaks floating above the smoke shroud that covers the Washington landscape.

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Clear Branch Creek in Wyeast Basin. Mts Rainier and Adams beyond.

Back down through fireweed in the burn zone, we say ‘Hi’ to a few ghost trees again, nibble the huckleberries, and make our way to the trailhead.

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My legs were feeling it today – I am getting back into shape, but still have a ways to go to recover my fitness. Photo note – many of the photos in this post were taken by my husband – I only had my cell phone with me.

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8 miles/1600 feet

Knitting

I finished the Cornwall socks!

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Cascade Lakes Weekend & ‘Tour de Craft’/Week 2 (18-30)

We love hiking in the Three Sisters Wilderness area just west of Bend, Oregon, and so planned a weekend of hikes. Our daughter wanted to join Dan to hike to the top of South Sister, and one of our sons decided to join them at the last minute. Dan and I drove out Wednesday evening. The ‘kids’ joined us Thursday evening, then returned home after the Friday hike. It was hot everywhere, but we had some beautiful hikes through summer meadows.

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A weekend of GPS tracks.

Green Lakes    Thursday 7/19/2018  (Hike#42)

My choice for Thursday was to hike into the Green Lakes basin between South Sister and Broken Top. It is a lovely hike along Fall Creek. The first two miles are through partially shady forest, with numerous waterfalls and cataracts to look down upon.

Eventually South Sister comes into view above the trees.

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South Sister; true summit behind Hodge Crest.

The upper trail is bound to the west by a wall-like volcanic flow studded with large chunks of shiny obsidian that glint in the sunlight.

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After two switchbacks, the remainder of the trail is lined with blooming alpine riparian plants – so pleasant to walk along that I was able to ignore the sun and the gradual climb.

Once into the Green Lakes Basin, the looming Broken Top and a view of the Hodge Crest of South Sister, as well as a peek at the top of Middle Sister to the north, surround the stunning very cold Green Lakes.

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Broken Top beyond the southernmost Green Lake

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South Sister

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Just the top of Middle Sister on the right skyline

We rested in the shade for a while, first with a view of Broken Top,

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Lunch view of Broken Top

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Zooming in…

then with a view of South Sister. From this viewpoint we can only see the Hodge Crest, which is about 300 feet lower than the true summit.

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South Sister

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Zooming in

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Zooming in more

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Artsy view with tree roots

The meadow flowers that grow on the moraine-like surface of the Green Lakes basin showed me a couple of new flowers I hadn’t seen before.

So many flowers in the meadows:

And, for the first time, I spotted a floating rock (pumice) in the wild. We used to float pumice in Intro Geology labs many years ago. Of course it must be a common occurrence in this volcanic landscape where the surface is speckled with pumice stones, but this was a first sighting for me.

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Floating pumice in Green Lake, Broken Top beyond.

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Floating pumice rock

Critters: We saw a frog in one of the creeks, and Dan was photobombed by a butterfly he was trying to photograph:

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frog

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butterfly

We retraced our steps back to the trailhead. The total for the day, 9.2 miles/1200 feet was the longest I have hiked this spring. The elevation rise on this hike is very gradual, so I found I could manage. I am glad my body cooperated today after the fail last week. It was not quite as hot here, and there was a breeze that helped.

Spa Day/Dan and Brian climb South Sister 7/20/2018

Two of our children accompanied Dan up the grueling trail (5000 feet/12miles round trip) to the top of South Sister (elevation 10,358′). I hiked part of this trail in 2015 – about 4000 feet and ten miles of it. I got to the point where I was looking over at the top of Lewis Glacier, about 1000 feet below the summit.

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2015 – My view from my turnaround point, 1000 feet below the summit of South Sister

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2015 – Lewis Glacier on South Sister and view to Green Lakes basin below Broken Top

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2015- Zoomed in view to Green Lakes, where we hiked yesterday.

Emily went about half way up today, but her running injury to her calf caused her to turn back, and so I got to spend part of my down time at the hotel with her. The guys made at the top:

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Brian and Dan on the top of South Sister, 7/20/2018. Middle and North Sisters to the immediate north. Beyond are several Cascade Peaks: Mts Washington, Jefferson, Hood and Adams

Todd and Sparks Lakes 7/21/2018  (Hike#43)  

Today we took two leisurely flat hikes, for a total of 3.5 miles.

Todd Lake

We had never been to Todd Lake before – the challenge here on a summer Saturday is to nab a parking space, but we got one, so we wandered slowly around this sparkling gem, views alternating to the east side of Broken Top and the northwest side of Mt Bachelor above the forests and wildflower meadows. It really was a perfect little stroll along the lakeshore with a nice breeze to cut the heat.

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Broken Top across Todd Lake

Polliwogs were swimming along the lake shore.

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Wildflowers in abundance along the southern shore

This inlet had both magenta and red-orange paintbrush –

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Wide meadows on the west side of Todd Lake had swaths of elephant head that were mostly past bloom, lots of paintbrush, trickling streams lined with flowers, and views to Mt Bachelor.

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We ate lunch near a trickling inlet with views of Mt Bachelor

As we walked into the forested north shore trail, the wildflower suite changed a bit.

Back to the starting point of the loop, Broken Top is in view again.

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SPARKS LAKE

Then we drove down the dusty road to the Roy Atkeson Trail at Sparks Lake. We walked a short way down the trail to the stunning viewpoints across lava rock and the shallow lake to South Sister and Broken Top from a slightly different, southern vantage point.  Hotter here, and fewer flowers, but still a worthwhile visit.

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South Sister and Broken Top from Sparks Lake

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Dan, South Sister

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Broken Top

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The flowers:

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Dee Wright Observatory    7/22/2018

On our drive home on Sunday, we took a side trip to McKenzie Pass to this famous lookout in the lava fields between the Three Sisters and Mt Washington.  I love the expansive views and sere landscape.

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Dee Wright Observatory (2016 photo)

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History

There is also a short trail through the lava field here, with signage about the geologic history of the McKenzie Pass area.

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A lava stairway winds to the top of the observatory with panoramic views the whole way.

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2016 photo

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North and Middle Sisters

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Northward view

The shelter at the top is also a peak finder with windows framing the significant mountains.

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Window framing North Sister (September 2016)

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Historical plaque inside the shelter

The stairs continue to the upper viewing platform above the shelter to 360 degree views.

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2016 photo

The brass peak finder at the top provides reference points in every direction:

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North and Middle Sisters

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Closer view

Belknap Craters, Mts Washington and Jefferson and points north:

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We could actually see all the way to Mt Hood today  – a little white point over the shoulder of Mt Jefferson.

In 2015 we hiked to the Belknap Craters on a windy day.

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Belknap Craters

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Closer view of the where the trail goes through the lava field.

Black Crater, to the east:

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We have experienced sunsets, moonrises, wind and thunderstorms here, and spotted wildfires in the distance. Today, as we drove the 15 miles from Sisters, we passed through the blackened landscape from the Milli fire here last year.

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Black Crater 2018, with blackened forest on the flanks.

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Black Crater, September 2016, at sunset – note the shadow of the observatory in the foreground, and the green trees on the slopes in the background.

Tour de Craft

Tour de France is getting exciting this week – the cobblestones,  Alpine stages, and change of hands of the yellow jersey. I look forward to finishing this Welcome Blanket– just the binding to go – though our central Oregon trip has cut into my craft time.

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I knit about an inch on my Cornwall sock, and added few stitches into the roof of Jane Austen’s cross stitch house.

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Garden

We ate our first ripe tomatoes this week, and we have plenty of basil.

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Ripe tomatoes

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Cucumber flowers but no fruit

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First Rudbeckia bloom!