Italy 2023, part 3, Dolomite Mountains, Tre Cime area

July 2nd to 4th, 2023 – Sesto Dolomites, hotel in Dobbiaco. The first few days of our tour we had cloudy and rainy weather, but still completed three awesome hikes, with plenty of time to admire wildflowers, and to appreciate the stunning views that occasionally appeared in the brighter weather windows.

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Our three hikes in the Tre Cime area area

#1. July 2 – Rifugio Citta di Carpi – We drove from Bressanone past Lake Misurina to the Refugio Col di Varda (6950′).  We rode up to our first trail in an open two person chair lift, above an amazing array of wildflowers in the tangled vegetation beneath us. We hiked up through damp forest and open meadows that were completely full of wildflowers – so many that we kept stopping to take pictures. Green lumpy meadows completely spangled with  bright yellow globes, buttercups, cinquefoil and trefoil; pink alpenrose, valerian and daphne; purple orchids, clematis and gentians. We had our first Rifugio lunch at the Refugio Citta di Carpi. As we walked back down our trail, the clouds cleared enough for us to see the mountain views we had missed on the way up. And back at the bottom, we could see all the way across Lake Misurina. A very fun, damp first day. (5.6 miles/1300 feet)

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Map of our trail from Col di Varda to Citta di Carpi.

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Trail from the top of the chair lift

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Flowers in the forest

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Flowers in the meadows

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Along the dolomite path toward cloud-covered peaks…

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Purple orchid and buttercup meadows.

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Up the rocky trail…

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Nearing the Rifugio, peaks coming out of the clouds.

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Flowers all the way…

So many different kinds of flowers!

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Avens, buttercups,

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Alpenrose, globes,

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Avens and yellow trefoils…

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Avens, alpenrose,

And more flowers…

Eventually we reached the Rifugio for lunch –

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Rifugio Citti di Carpi

After lunch, we could see the surrounding mountains a little better as we descended back to the chair lift that would take us back to Lake Misurina.

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Mountains beyond the clouds and flowers

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More flower meadow and peaks

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Close up of the Cadini peaks

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Cirque wall

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Looking down on Lake Misurina from the descending chair lift

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Lake Misurina

Later that evening the clouds cleared more, and we could see the Cadini from our hotel in Dobbiaco…

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View of the Cadini from our hotel.

#2. July 3 – Tre Cime – Our bus took us from our hotel in Dobbiaco to Refugio Auranzo. We hiked up to Refugio Locatelli, mostly in clouds. After lunch, as we circled back to our starting point, we finally saw the Tre Cime, or three  chimneys. We also saw a million flowers, bedded dolomite, and glacial cirques. The rain started again just as we reached the bus.  A hard hike for me, on tired legs from yesterday. (7.3 miles, 1500 feet)

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Trail sign, with our locations highlighted. Purple are Rifugios, and Blue is the Tre Cime Massif we are hiking around, and trying to see through the clouds.

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We passed this Alpine Chapel on the first part of our walk.

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Then we passed the Rifugio Lavaredo, still not seeing many views.

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Trail junction.

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Now hiking toward the Rifugio Locatelli…

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Green, flower-filled meadows along our way,

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and flowers on the rocky slopes as well.

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Some clearing, but we seem to be walking into the clouds.

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At last, we can see the Rifugio Locatelli through the mist on the skyline,

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And some of the craggy peaks nearby.

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Fractured dolomite in the switchback cliffs heading up to the Rifugio

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Rifugio Locatelli, our lunch stop.

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Patio dining, hoping for a view of the Tre Cime.

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Small lakes in the valley on the other side of the Rifugio.

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After lunch, we started our return loop. We could see the trail we had taken in the morning,

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and our trail down through the cirque and up the other side (blue arrow). The Tre Cime are mostly behind the clouds.

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Zooming in on the bedded dolomites in the face of one of the Tre Cime cliffs.

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Crossing the green, wildflower filled cirque,

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with partial views to the valley below

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Plenty of wildflowers along the way.

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Up on the shoulder on the other side, looking back to the Rifugio Locatelli, and our day’s journey. A little more clearing.

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The cliffs we walked under in the morning.

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A little while later, we finally had an almost clear view of the Tre Cime, for about ten minutes!

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Some of the other surrounding peaks we had yet to see.

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As we continued hiking, we passed one last mountain hut – the Manga Langalm.

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Vertical dipping rocks along the trail

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And one last view of our day, before we hiked out of this view, and finished our hike back at the Rifugio Auronzo in yet another cloud burst.

A selection of the day’s  wildflowers…

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Trail sign with local flower names.

# 3. July 4 –  Rifugio Fonda Savio – On the drive to our hike today, we passed the Tre Cime view point and got a great view of the peaks we had hiked around yesterday from the bus.

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View of the Tre Cime from the bus.

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GPS Track of our hike to Rifugio Fonda Savio.

From our trailhead, we walked through the meadows of the Pian dei Spiriti, and then up a rocky dolomite trail, and along a cirque, through green grassy meadows full of flowers. The trail passed under the pulley that hauled our lunch up to the Refugio. Some of our group hiked down the steep side, with cable railings along the trail. The rest of us returned the way we came, but with better views as the skies cleared a bit. We saw rock climbers and all the mountains and flowers, and more clouds but no rain. (5.5 miles, 1800 feet)

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Our trail goes between the two peaks into the Ciadin dei Tocci.

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Looking back, we can see a wide panorama, thanks to our clear skies today.

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The cable in the foreground goes up to the Rifugio

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Trail upward into the cirque, lined with flowers.

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We passed under the pulley carrying Rifugio supplies upward.

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Panorama of our surroundings

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And a closer look at some of the peaks beyond.

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First view of the Rifugio on our trail up the cirque

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So many flowers!

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Backward view again, on a rest stop.

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Sun on this mountain

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Avens along the Rifugio trail

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The last rocky pitch up to our lunch stop, with flag flying above.

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Delicious lunch at the Rifugio Fonda Savio.

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After lunch we climbed to the ridge above the Rifugio,

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then up to the flag pole, and looked out at the views on the other side.

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View on the other side to the Val de la Cianpedele.

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Some of our group started down the iron trail on the other side, and they would rendezvous with us at the bottom.

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Close up – you can see the trail-side cable they are holding on to.

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The rest of us returned the way we came, admiring rocky peaks and flowers all the way down, and trails not taken. There are a lot of other options here.

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Starting down past the pulley infrastructure, with raven.

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Down the dolomite path.

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Rock climbers in some of the cracks above us.

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Flowers and peaks…

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Flowers and peaks..

And more flowers…

We had enjoyed this day, with no rain, and were looking forward to clearer skies as we moved westward for our next few days of hiking.

Italy 2023, part 2: Bressanone

June 30th and July 1, 2023 – We took the Eurocity Express train from Innsbruck to Bressanone, a two hour journey. Our train car was crowded with both passengers and luggage, and I could only catch small glimpses of the scenery in Brenner Pass, which is supposed to be spectacular. Once in Bressanone, we checked in to our hotel, then wandered around the town that evening and again the next day.

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Our hotel, just across the Eisack River Bridge from the center of Bressanone

 

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Downstream view from the bridge

 

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Upstream view toward Bressanone

 

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Entering town along the Via Ponte Aquila

 

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Roof detail

 

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Walking on beautifully geometric cobblestone streets

The Piazza Duomo in the center of town is surrounded by historic buildings:

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Entering the Piazza Duomo

 

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The Town Hall

 

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The town symbol is a lamb, here interpreted in flowers

 

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The Cathedral, originally built in the 10th century, with Baroque modifications in the 1700’s.

 

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Cathedral

 

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Cathedral

 

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Piazza

I love the curved roof tiles and colored window panes…

We passed the Millenium Column on our way to the Hofgarten:

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Millenium Column (1909) with Lamb mascot

 

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Hofgarten Entrance

 

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Hofgarten

 

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Lilies and rudbeckia

 

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View across the Hofgarten

 

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Another Hofgarten view

 

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Decorative gates near the Hofgarten

After a stop for gelato in the Piazza, we visited the Apothecary/Pharmacy Museum.

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Inside the Apothecary Museum…

 

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Old medicine jars

 

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Very old books with illustrations of plants used for medicines

We crossed back over the river to our hotel, looking eastward toward the Dolomite Mountains, our destination for the next ten days…

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Looking east toward the mountains…

That evening, we met our tour group at the hotel and set our agenda for the first few days of our tour.

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Location Map for our hikes in the Dolomite Mountains. Blue suitcases circled in pink are hotel locations; Green flags circled in red are hike locations.

We would be heading east to the Sesto Dolomites, and staying in Dobbiaco for the next three nights.

Austria and Italy, 2023, part 1

June 23 to July 14th….We went on a covid-postponed hiking tour of the Dolomite Mountains of Italy, preceded by a few acclimatization days in Innsbruck, Austria. The destination was a goal trip for my husband. This was my first trip to continental Europe. I was trepidatious about the amount of hiking (would my knees hold out?), language barriers, transport, covid, all of it. But it all turned out fairly well. We saw amazing scenery and wildflowers, ate delicious food, made some new friends, and despite a few transit delays and confusion, returned safely. Now I am home in the Pacific Northwest that I love, and recovered from the jet lag that I find so disorienting. I am thinking about our adventures, and adding my experiences of a new place into my world view. As I have found before, I wish I had more international experience at a younger age – it would be easier on the body. But I am glad we went, and I will enjoy many memories from this trip for a long time.

Part 1: Austria-

We flew from Portland, Oregon, to Newark, New Jersey, to Frankfort, Germany. There were unexplained delays in Newark, so we missed our connecting flight flight to Innsbruck. After sleepwalking back and forth for two miles on the concourses between airport terminals, we eventually were rescheduled onto a flight for the next day, and given room and meal vouchers for an airport hotel. The next day (June 25th), we flew into Innsbruck, admiring the mountains on either side of the city as the plane descended into the valley.

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Descending into Innsbruck.

We were staying on the 12th floor of a hotel on the south end of town, with excellent views.

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View of Innsbruck, and the mountains to the north, from our room.

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Closer view

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Window inspiration for a modern quilt?

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View to the south, including the mountain we would ride a gondola up, then hike up, later in the week.

We spent the next few days walking around Innsbruck, and hiking in the adjacent mountains.

Tuesday, June 26th – We rode the Hungerburg Funicular to its upper station, on the slopes of the  Karwendel Mountains. We could have continued up higher into the mountains on the Nordkette Gondola, but the weather was not amenable that day. Instead, we took a short hike to the Arzler Alm, a farm with  a restaurant, then made our way back down to the funicular station before riding back to town. I was still fairly jet lagged, but enjoyed seeing the landscape and stretching my hiking legs a bit.

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Looking up toward Hungerburg

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Lower Hungerburg station

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Hungerburg Funicular at the top station

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View back toward Innsbruck from the upper Hungerburg station

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Looking up into the mountains along the Nordkette Gondola route

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Hiking path above Hungerburg

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Arzler Alm

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Arzler Alm cows

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Riding the funicular back to Innsbruck

Wednesday, June 27th – Another partly rainy day. We wandered some of the streets in the old town and visited the Golden Roof Museum.

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The Triumphal Arch from the south

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Triumphal Arch from the north

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Open streets/pedestrian zone in the old town

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Building detail in the old town

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Golden Roof Museum

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Close up of the golden roof and building ornamentation

The Golden Roof Museum was built in 1494, and was a residence of the Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian I. The museum highlights the life and accomplishments of Maximillian.

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Looking out onto the town from the balcony under the Golden Roof

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Tile detail

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A 400+ year old painting of Innsbruck

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Virtual image of us looking out onto Innsbruck

We also walked along the Inn River, and at some point, I walked past a yarn shop and bought some souvenir yarn.

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The Inn River

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Thursday, June 28th – A beautiful sunny day! We rode the gondola up the Patscherkofel, then hiked about 2 miles/1000 feet, to its top. Although it is capped with communication towers, there are stunning views back toward Innsbruck and the Alps to the north. And we got a taste of the abundant wildflower displays we would see during the rest of our trip.

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Gondola up the Patscherkofel

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Fields of yellow wildflowers

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Looking back toward Innsbruk

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Blooming alpenrose all the way up the mountain

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Some of the giant communication towers at the top

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Looking down from the top to the west,

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And to the east

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Hiking down

A selection of wildflowers:

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gentian

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daisies

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avens

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cinquefoil

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orchid

Friday, June 29th – We took the train south from Innsbruck to Bressanone, Italy, to begin our hiking tour – to be described in future posts.