Exploring Bath, UK – May 10, 2018

Day 15 – Following Jane Austen around town

We left Devon and drove to the city of Bath in Somerset, a world heritage city known for Georgian architecture and Roman Baths. Also home to Jane Austen for a few years of her life, and the setting for parts of her novels – Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.

After setting up in our B&B on Charlotte St, we took an Open Top Bus tour, then walked around town to get a closer looks.

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Signpost map of Bath, with some of our highlights circled.

Jane Austen Centre:

Our first stop was the Jane Austen Centre on Gay Street, which is just down the block from Number 25, where Jane Austen lived in 1805. It is now a dentist office.

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Jane Austen Centre on Gay Street

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25 Gay Street, home to Jane Austen in 1805.

Jane Austen spent some time in lodgings near Queen Square. She would have been familiar with the Obelisk in Queen Square Gardens which dates back to 1738, and was made in honor of the Prince of Wales by Beau Nash, the Master of Ceremonies of the town at the time. It is made of the same Jurassic oolitic limestone that is the prominent building stone throughout Bath.

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Obelisk in Queen Square

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Bath Stone – Jurassic oolitic limestone

While on the Open Top Bus Tour, we were shown another of Jane Austen’s former residences at 4 Sydney Place near the Sydney Gardens.

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4 Sydney Place – Jane Austen lived here in 1801,

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and walked here.

Jane Austen would have been familiar with many other Georgian buildings around town:

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St Michael’s Church

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Bath Abbey

The Pump Room: Where people drank the waters in hopes of improved health. Some of Jane Austen’s characters met in the Pump Room for their daily drink and for socializing.

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The Pump Room is now a restaurant.

A few other streets and shopping areas:

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Great Pulteney Street

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Milsom Street

The River Avon runs through town, and we crossed several times. This is the view of Pulteney Bridge from the North Parade Bridge:

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Two of the landmark Georgian streets and buildings in Bath are The Circus, and The Royal Crescent. The imposing curved edifices are built of Bath Stone.

The Circus: Three massive crescents form a complete circle around a central green.

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A closer look at the architectural details along the eaves:

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The Royal Crescent: An even larger crescent of Georgian buildings.

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The Royal Crescent is over 500 feet long and difficult to photograph!

We walked along the Gravel Path, a protected off street pedestrian walk that leads from the parks near the Royal Crescent to the heart of town. It is where Jane’s characters Anne Elliot and Captain Wentworth finally found some privacy to declare their love.

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The Gravel Path

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The Gravel Path

Bath is an easy town navigate on foot, and if we had been staying longer, it would have been easy to walk into the surrounding hills to see other places where Jane Austen walked. For this day, it was time to enjoy a delicious Indian meal and then plan our next day’s adventure – to see the Roman Baths, and a little more sight seeing around town – our last full day of the trip.

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A Winter Day at the Oregon Coast

2/21/2019

We drove over the snowy Coast Range from Portland to Cannon Beach and explored some of our favorite places on a cold, sunny day. Everywhere else within reach was colder, wetter, snowier.

Arcadia Beach State Park

First stop, late morning. High tide was in the early afternoon so the beach was shrinking as we walked a couple of miles south along the shore. We could not get around any of the headlands. Heavy mineral concentrations on the sand-depleted winter beaches made beautiful patterns.

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Looking down on Arcadia Beach from above – at low tide we would be able to walk around the headland and north all the way to Cannon Beach.

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Tidal channels

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Heavy mineral patterns

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Foot for scale.

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View to the south toward Hug Point and beyond.

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Zooming in on Hug Point – as close as we would get to it today.

Hug Point State Park

Tide even higher, so our stop here was brief.

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Beach at Hug Point State Park – north view at high tide. We would not be able to see the waterfall or Hug Point itself today.

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South view – in the summer the sand stretches for miles at low tide!

Arch Cape Beach

We have stayed near this beach many times over the past 30 years. We found a log to perch on while we ate our lunch. Only the rocky shingle was exposed on the winter beach. Thick foam was washing around in the swash zone, floating on the ebbing water, sparkling in the sun.

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Lunch view to the north.

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Lunch view to the south, Arch Cape and Castle Rock.

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Neahkahnie Viewpoint

At the south end of Oswald West State Park, the view to Nehalem Bay and Manzanita to the south is stunning.

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Neahkahnie Mountain

We hiked the three mile round trip to the top of Neahkahnie Mountain – beautiful views on this cold day.

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Much of the trail is through shady forest.

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View from the rocky top. Nehalem Bay and Manzanita Beach.

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Note the snow capped peaks in the Coast Range.

Short Sand Beach, Oswald West State Park

We walked a couple of miles here on the interconnected trails that lead to Short Sand Beach in Smuggler’s Cove.

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Bridge over Necarney Creek

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View to north from the south beach

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View to south from the south beach

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North beach of Smuggler’s CoveFalcon Point and Blumenthal Falls

There were a few surfers in the water.

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I accidentally photographed a surfer when I was zooming in on the falls.

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Blumenthal Falls

Silver Point View

Looking back toward Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock.

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Cannon Beach/Haystack Rock at Sunset

After an early dinner in Cannon Beach, we parked near Haystack Rock. Dan walked down the beach to photograph the sunset. I watched from above, keeping warm in the car. (Hike #11, 8 miles, 1100 feet for the day).

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Haystack Rock

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Tillamook Head to the north.

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Crafting

I finished the first sock of this pair. I have set up a frame to practice canvas stitching.

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Winter Gardens, Portland

Hoyt Arboretum  2/15/2019

Two hours with no rain – we took a walk to the Winter Garden in Hoyt Arboretum, Washington Park. (Hike #9, 2 miles, 200 feet)

 

We saw more blooming witch hazel near the Vietnam Veteran’s Memorial:

Crystal Springs   2/17/2019

A dry day – we met friends at Crystal Springs Rhododendron Garden, and walked all around the lakes and garden paths. We then crossed the road and walked along Crystal Springs Creek through Reed Canyon on the Reed College campus. (Hike#10, 3 miles, 150 feet).

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Bridge at the north end of the gardens near the entrance.

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Winter plants were blooming, though nothing like the riot of color during rhododendron and azalea season.

Water birds and reflections:

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Crystal Springs Creek trail in Reed Canyon:

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The bicycle/pedestrian bridge across the canyon.

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Walking east along Reed Canyon.

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A great blue heron near the marsh.

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The spring inlet on the east end of campus.

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The lake on the west end of campus.

Cross Stitch

I mounted the Jane Austen House Cross Stitch on foam board using sequin pins and a few stitches at the corners. The piece is now hanging on my wall!

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Jane Austen’s House in Chawton, May 2018. I realize now the cross stitch kit view is the side facing the garden, not the street front.

Knitting

I found buttons for my Brioche Headscarf, and have worn it!

 

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White herons at Ridgefield

Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge, Washington,  2/7/2019

Cold and snowy in the Pacific Northwest. We went to the wildlife refuge to stretch our legs and look for birds. We walked the Oaks to Wetlands trail in the Carty Unit. Hike #8, 3.2 miles.

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Bridge into the refuge.

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Old oak tree.

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Great blue heron on the path.

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Wild geese in the distance.

We saw several great blue herons, and two of them seemed to have a white egret companion, but after a little googling, we found that there is a white morph of the great blue heron.

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Two herons across one of the lakes.

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We saw another pair in the distance across the northernmost lake.

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Icy shoreline, two herons in the far distance.

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Zoomed in – the two herons.

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Crafting

I knit a Brioche Headscarf, pattern by Margaret K. L. Thompson, out of the leftover Berroco Millifiori hat yarn. Two evenings of knitting, I just need to add a button.

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I am working on framing my Jane Austen’s House cross stitch.

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Lewis River Waterfalls, a hat finish, and snow in Pdx

January 31, 2019  Moulton Falls, Bells Mountain trail, and Lucia Falls, Washington

Our first time hiking here. We have passed through on our way to Silver Star Mountain in the summer, and noted the crowds enjoying the swimming holes along the Lewis River near Battleground, Washington. Today we stopped to see the waterfalls in the off season, and to hike up the nearby Bells Mountain trail for a view of Mt St Helens.

The rails to trails path along the Lewis River goes over this beautiful bridge, the East Fork High Bridge, which is apparently a popular jumping spot in summer.

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Downstream from the bridge.

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Upstream from the bridge.

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Looking down…

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My shadow self portrait.

Up the Bells Mountain trail – about 1000 feet up in 1.5 miles, so a good work out.

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Uphill through ferns and second growth forest…

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Until we cross a clear cut area, and the view to Mt St Helens opens up.

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Ice on the trail

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Lunch time view – across the Lewis River area to Mt St Helens.

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Passing Moulton Falls on the return hike

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Nearby Yacolt Falls

And Lucia Falls:

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Total for the day:  6.7 miles, 1100 feet, hike #7.

Knitting

I finished my Brioche Watch Cap, after having to buy an extra skein of Berocco Millifiore yarn, just in time for snow in Portland.

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Neighborhood, 2/5/2019

Snow…

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And a view of Mt St Helens and the Ross Island and Tilikum Crossing Bridges from the OHSU eighth floor waiting room. Latest follow up results are all good!

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1/29/2019

 

Exploring North Devon – Lynton to Ilfracombe, UK

Day 14  – More North Devon   Wednesday, May 9, 2018

Our plan for the day was to explore along the coast of North Devon to the west of our lodging in Lynton.

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Valley of Rocks – Castle Hill

Our first stop was in the Valley of Rocks again. We wanted to climb to the top of Castle Hill this time. We had great views and a wildlife encounter.

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Valley of Rocks

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This bird escorted us up the path on an otherwise quiet day.

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Dan ascending, the bird on the upper left.

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I hiked up the next rise to find my path blocked by feral goats.

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We found another path to the top.

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Looking down on the goats.

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An ‘arch’ of Devonian sandstone near the top.

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View to the west, where we hiked two days ago.

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Looking down on the goats again as we head down hill.

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Another ‘cheese wring’ across the road.

Trentishoe

Next, we drove west through the rolling landscape, and stopped for a coastal view at Trentishoe Hill.

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Looking east along the Devon coastline.

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A rocky cove beyond the blooming gorse.

Holdstone Down

We took a short hike to a trig point at Holdsmore Down.

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Track across Holdstone Down.

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Holdstone Down trig point

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View to the west

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Looking south across downs to the manicured counterpane farm fields.

Combe Martin

We explored the rocky cove and beach at Combe Martin as the tide was coming in. it would have been nice to explore around to the next cove, but seemed too risky.

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The beach at Combe Martin, tide rising.

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Dipping Devonian sandstones form one wall of the beach.

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The walk along the cliffs.

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Spring flowers above.

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Looking back to town.

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Sandstone and the view across the harbor.

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Walking around the cliff edge.

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Tide pools

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Tide coming in along the outer walkway.

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Limpets and snails

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Eroding stairway up the cliff.

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After exploring the beach we drove on to the western viewpoint looking back down to Combe Martin beach.

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The walkway along Combe Martin beach.

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We could also see to the west from the upper viewpoint.

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Ilfracombe

Our last stop was the sprawling town of Ilfracombe. It is surrounded by water and spread out over several rocky hills. The rising tide meant we could not go into the famous Tunnel Beach. Instead, we explored the viewpoints and some local art installations, and finally stopped at a teashop for a famous Devon Cream Tea – two light and fluffy scones with Devon cream and strawberry jam, and a pot of tea. All was delicious.

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Ilfracombe Harbor

We walked through town, then uphill to the Ilfracombe Observatory, with great views all around

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Back to the southeast.

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We had our tea in one of these shops.

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To the southwest.

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To the north – the sea.

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Top of the hill.

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The Tunnel Beaches are along those cliffs to the west. As we admired the view, we noticed an interesting mosaic installation just beyond the beach.

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We could actually pace out the distance this local athlete had triple jumped while setting a (still standing) world record in 1995.

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It’s hard to imagine going this distance (18.29 meters/60 feet) in three ‘steps’!

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Looking back to the beach and Observatory Hill.

After our tea, we walked back toward the harbor, with the goal of seeing another local art installation called Verity – which, at more than 20 m high, can’t be missed!

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Verity by Damien Hirst, Ilfracombe Harbor

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This side of the statue displays the organs beneath the skin.

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This was our last stop for the day. We found our way back to Lynton, and packed up our belongings, ready to leave tomorrow for our next stop, Bath. And more Jane Austen history.

Silver Falls and Steigerwald

1/27/2019 Steigerwald Wildlife Refuge, WA

A short walk on a foggy day with one of our sons.

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Ducks

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Swans

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Great Blue Heron near the bridge

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Ephemeral reflections

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Bald eagle pair watching over all.

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2.3 miles, hike #5 for 2019.

1/28/2019 Silver Falls, OR

Windy and cold in Portland, but warmer to the south. We drove to Silver Falls State Park in the Cascade foothills east of Salem, Oregon, where the North and South Forks of Silver Creek fall in steep drops or shorter cascades over ledges of volcanic rock. We hiked the Trail of Ten Falls, though we skipped one – so the Trail of Nine Falls. One or more waterfalls every mile of the seven mile loop keeps the trail interesting. Lots of water in the falls, compared to my last visit in August of 2017!

South Falls 177 ft

We started at South Falls, but skipped the path behind the falls as I didn’t want to start out the hike wet.

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South Falls from the upper viewpoint

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South Falls from the bridge.

Lower South Falls 93 ft

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Stairs down the cliff.

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Walking behind the falls.

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Dan on the left, emerging from behind the falls.

The trail follows the river, with occasional bridge crossings.

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Lower North Falls 30 ft

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Double Falls 178 ft

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Drake Falls 27 ft

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Named for the man who created the park.

Middle North Falls 106 ft

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North Falls 136 ft

The trail leads behind North Falls.

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Behind the falls.

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Looking back.

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And now we have to climb up out of the canyon.

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Looking back down at North Falls.

We did not walk the extra distance to Upper North Falls (65 ft), but followed the Rim Trail toward –

Winter Falls 134 ft

We only saw the upper lip of this one, though there is a trail down to the base.

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Winter Falls rim.

This was the last waterfall of the hike (7.0 miles, 1200 feet, hike #6 for 2019).

Wildlife

There was a ladybug picnic on one of the fence posts:

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White River, first crocus

1/24/2019 White River Snowshoe, Mt Hood, OR

We started in mist with promise of sun breaking through. As we walked up the snow covered braid plain of the White River, the glowing peak of Mt Hood showed in silhouette, then in clarity against clear blue sky.

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Looking back to the start point, fog lifting.

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Clear blue skies over Mt Hood.

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We hiked up onto the ridge and continued toward the mountain.

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Approaching Boy Scout Ridge, near our lunch stop.

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Lunch stop view point. A large group was already there, and the mountain peak was glowing ethereally as the sun came in through the clouds.

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Lunch view.

Return down the White River, high clouds forming.

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Tree shadows on the snowy moraine surface.

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Last look back at Mt Hood.

(Hike # 5, 3.3 miles, 750 feet)

Winter Bulbs Blooming

The first snowdrop and crocus bulbs have opened in the garden this week.dsc01372img_1836

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Pink and blue striped sky, half moon hanging above. From January 12, 2019.

Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge birds, a lunar eclipse, and new knitting projects

1/19/2019 Ridgefield Wildlife Refuge, WA, in the fog

We drove the auto tour in the southern, River S Unit, to see if anyone was out today.

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We saw several bald eagles through the fog all along the route.

It was a great day for Great Blue Herons near the road.

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Great blue heron standing in the field beyond a flock of Canada geese.

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We also saw swans and more geese,

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lots of nutria swimming, and this one crossing the road:

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lots of ducks,

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We watched a hawk take a bath on a sign near the exit.

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1/20/2019 Lunar Eclipse

The clouds cleared for about 10 minutes. We saw the moon just as it was entering totality. My camera could not see it once it went dark, but we briefly saw the orange glow of the blood red moon before the clouds closed in again.

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My best image, hand held and zoomed in.

New knitting

I cast on another pair of socks from Berocco Sox yarn – plain vanilla with a 3×3 cable down the sides.

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And a Brioche Watch Cap from  Berroco Millifiori yarn – this makes a cushy and shiny fabric, and works up fast!

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Good deeds for the week – I cleaned out my sewing cabinet and organized my threads and notions, so now I should be able to find things and get back to sewing. And I enabled a new sock knitter!

Neighborhood Poetry Posting

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Rest In Peace, Mary Oliver. Your poems will live forever.

Hummocks Trail, Mt St Helens, WA, and some finished projects!

1/14/2019 Hummocks Trail

We drove north from Portland through fog and hoarfrost, up the Toutle River Valley on Hwy. 504, then out of the fog to the Hummocks Trailhead, the end of the road this time of year.

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Mt St Helens with hummocky landscape in the foreground.

The Hummocks Loop Trail winds through hummocks, which are mounds of poorly consolidated pulverized volcanic deposits that were dropped here like a house out of a tornado, as the debris avalanche produced by Mt St Helens’ eruption passed over the area. Since that time, 38 years ago, lakes and primitive drainages have formed between the hummocks, and trees and plants have grown on their slopes, every form of life younger than 38 years old. Today we saw bare alder trees, iced lakes and dry grass in the stark landscape, but the hummocks also protected us from the wind.

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Walking along an icy lake

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Lake ice

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Another lake between the hummocks

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Icy surface

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Alders

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Trail companions

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Small creek between hummocks.

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Our lunch time view of Mt St Helens, slightly sheltered from the wind.

We continued to the Toutle River viewpoint.

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Looking downstream – the river carves through the hummock deposits.

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Upstream – the Toutle River braid plain and the mountain.

We also saw the Science and Learning Center situated high above Coldwater Lake.

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Another lake in the hummocks.

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The white and windy mountain – stunted by eruption, wide maw open to the north, wind blown dust and snow hazing our view.

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Half moon rising over 38 year old stumps on the ridge to the east.

The present is the key to the past, in geological thinking. Except when it isn’t – that is, when the present hasn’t yet revealed how the rocks got that way. On May 18, 1980, about three weeks before I graduated from college with a Bachelor of Science degree in Geology, Mt St Helens revealed to scientists all over the world how these particular deposits form. It was a moment of instant enlightenment, as my professor excitedly told us, once the ash finished falling and the studies begun. Wide ranging theories about how similar hummocky landscapes all over the world were formed were replaced by the lateral blast model. Going forward, Red Evacuation Zones would be wider, and more lives protected.  It was just a blip in geological time, but a catastrophe in human time, a moment that changed everything.

Coldwater Lake

Coldwater Lake was not even here before the eruption. The blast debris dammed up the drainage, and then engineers stabilized it. It is now a lovely place to contemplate the surrounding landscape. Dan and I completed the 12 mile hike around the lake a few years ago in a low snow year. Along the way we witnessed the rusting logging equipment that survives on the lee side of Coldwater Ridge, while walking through a mostly new and revegetating landscape. Today, we walked past the “shutdown” locked gate to the shore.

dsc01186We held onto our hats while the wind whipped the water into white caps, and looked at the barren knife edge of Minnie Peak at the far end of the lake. The surrounding slopes were all denuded by the 180 mph lateral blast of volcanic debris, ash, and gas.

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Coldwater Lake

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A large hummock right in the middle of the lake.

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Closer view of Minnie Peak.

The lake, and all the vegetation are less than 38 years old. It is an awe inspiring sight!

(4.2 miles, 200 feet, for the day, hike #4 for 2019)

Elk Rock Viewpoint

On our way home we stopped at a high point on Hwy 504 – the Elk Rock Viewpoint. No elk today, but another look at Mt St Helens, the adjacent Mt Margaret back country, and Mt Adams peeking over her shoulder, volcanic cone intact for now.

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Mt St Helens

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The Mt Margaret back country.

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Closer view of Mt Adams.

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Panoramic view.

Crafting

I finished knitting the toe of the second sock.

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I relearned how to stitch French knots, so placed the final stitches in Jane Austen’s house. My next step is to figure out how to frame it. And then move on to my Nova project, teach myself the canvas stitches – tent, cashmere, mosaic, Scottish. A new stitching adventure awaits.