Fowey to Lynton via The Cheesewring at Minions (18-54)

December 3, 2018December 3, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Day 11, May 6, 2018

We packed up and left our lovely cottage at Fowey. Our next destination was another four day self catering apartment, this time in a Victorian cliffside mansion in Lynton, on the north coast of Devon. Our drive took us near Bodmin Moor. We found an interesting stop along the way near the village of Minions. There were three ancient stone circles called The Hurlers, a rock formation called the Cheesewring, and baby animals in the farm pastures. For a travel day we did fairly well. We stocked up on groceries in Okehampton, then continued north on the winding roads that led to our cliffside perch in Lynton.

Minions and the Cheesewring

We parked in the carpark and looked at signs about the history of this locale and the three ancient stone circles called The Hurlers that have been partially reconstructed.

We walked through the stone circles and across the pastures, noticing a nearby tin mine. This whole area was a tin and copper mining center in the late 1800’s.

Landscape view of Stowe’s Hill and The Hurlers.

Tin mine

The Hurlers

Looking toward Stowe’s Hill.

Looking back toward Minions.

We continued on to Stowe’s Hill, where the landmark known as The Cheesewring – a ‘stack’ of weathered granite slabs is perched above a quarry.

Stowe’s Hill in the distance.

Getting closer – quarry on the right side.

The Cheesewring

The Cheesewring is fenced off from the quarry below.

Rock climbers in the quarry.

Beyond The Cheesewring, the top of Stowe’s Hill is also made of a stack of weathered granite slabs.

Looking back at The Cheesewring from the top of Stowe’s Hill.

Dan at the top of Stowe’s Hill; The Cheesewring beyond.

We walked back down the hill and around the standing stones and cow herd in the pasture, admiring the foal and the lambs.

Lynton

After a stop in Okehampton for lunch and groceries,

Driving view of Okehampton

we made our way to Lynton. Lady google directed us along narrow streets through the town and seemingly to the cliff edge, then through these iron gates

Entrance to our lodgings.

to the former mansion, now guesthouse with tea service, called Villa Spaldi. Our self catering apartment, furnished in old, formal style, had everything we would need for our next few days of exploring, and a fabulous view across the bay.

Villa Spaldi

Eastward view over Lynmouth from our little balcony.

After settling in, we took an evening walk along the SW Coast Path to the west toward the Valley of Rocks. The sun was low, and we planned to come back this way for more exploring tomorrow.

Treed slope along the path

Looking back to the east.

Valley of Rocks

Walking toward the setting sun.

Walking back east.

The path looks down on our cliffside abode.

Last view to the east of Lynmouth Bay.

Return to Angel’s Rest (18-53)

November 29, 2018December 2, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Angel’s Rest Trail, Oregon November 24, 2018

A few trails in the Columbia River Gorge that have been closed since the September 2017 Eagle Creek Fire were reopened for the first time this past weekend. We went to Angel’s Rest on Saturday morning, along with hundreds of other local hikers. It was with care, scrutiny, appreciation, and gratitude that we made our way up 1500 feet to the iconic views over the gorge. The trail was in great shape, thanks to the many trail keepers who have worked on recovery.

Into the woods

Views of Cape Horn, the Columbia River and Phoca Rock emerge on the lower trail.

Coopey Falls

Angel’s Rest – our destination.

The trail begins to switchback up the front of Angel’s Rest.

Burned tree trunks and open views line the trail.

First view west toward the trailhead.

Well repaired trail surface next to blackened trees.

Blackened stump.

Nearing the top, the views unfold:

To the west, from near the top.

The Hilary Step of Angel’s Rest – leads to the ridge crest. Sometimes there is a line of hikers waiting to go up or down.

From the top, looking toward the overlook where many rest.

Open view west – toward Portland, Cape Horn in Washington and Phoca Rock.

Open view east – toward Hamilton Mountain in Washington.

We wandered around on top for a while, admiring the view from various perspectives, and found a place to eat lunch.

Closer view of Cape Horn in Washington.

The bench is still there.

We saw a single blooming white yarrow near our lunch stop.

Yarrow

We headed down, stopping for a few more views along the way.

Looking back toward the top, where the first views are seen.

My shadow in the low November light.

My favorite sculpted shoreline of the Columbia River.

View through the rock piles.

Seasonal berries

Trees that are burned, dying, no longer evergreen.

Looking back as we hiked down:

Where we were – and much more visible with all the undergrowth burned away.

White berries lined this part of the trail – not sure what they are – possible snowberries, or the dreaded poison oak.

Golden Hike of the year, #62, 5.2 miles, 1500 feet.

Look back:

I found a couple of comparison photos from previous hikes – this one in January of 2013:

January 2013 – the white tree trunks are left from a fire in 1991.

November 2018 – the white trunks are blackened, and the green trees are now dying.

A closer view:

January 2013

November 2018

An image taken in 2017 from Cape Horn looking over to today’s hike to Angel’s Rest.

Angel’s Rest, October 2017, From Cape Horn, WA.

Pumpkin Pie

A lovely Thanksgiving dinner with a small gathering of family and friends.

Knitting

Another round cloth. Some new sock and hat yarn acquired from my LYS on Black Friday.

Jane Austen House Cross Stitch

I have been rather obsessively cross stitching in the evenings.

Neighborhood

Leaves fully gone from the flame ash tree.

Other Adventures

It has been about a year since I was diagnosed with a pituitary tumor. I had another trip through the MRI this week to evaluate the tumor surgery site, accompanied by a Joni Mitchell soundtrack in my head this time. Fortunately, all appears well. And I could see all three mountains from the OHSU tram view patio.

Mt St Helens on the left; the top of Mt Adams just right of center on the horizon. Tillikum Bridge over the Willamette River on the right.

Tillikum Bridge on the left; Mt Hood on the horizon – looking east from the OHSU tram patio.

Zennor and Lizard; Finding Cornwall (18-52)

November 22, 2018November 28, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Day 10, Saturday, May 5, 2018

Part 1, Zennor

We drove from Fowey to the north coast of Cornwall again, to the village of Zennor, west of St Ives. We walked along the Southwest Coast Path, down one canyon, across the stream, and up the next bluff. The great views were limited by cloud cover, though we enjoyed seeing the flowers and a waterfall.

Foggy views

Crossing the stream

Pendour Cove

Foggy lunch spot

Flowers on the path back to Zennor.

Giant Gunnera manicata – a Brazilian plant brought to the UK in the 1860s.

Red campion and scilla

Rock stile

Primroses

St Senara’s Church, Zennor

Our walk

We were disappointed about the cloud clover, as this is supposed to be a particularly spectacular coastline.

Part 2, Lizard

On a tip from other hikers we cut our Zennor hike short and drove to Lizard on the south coast and found Cornwall! Sunny blue skies, craggy cliffs, wildflowers, sparkling seas. Lizard is the southernmost point of the mainland of Great Britain, and is a popular tourist location, with cafes, small shops, and a lighthouse. We enjoyed the sun and the views as we walked along the cliffside paths.

We walked cliffside paths to the west, then east of Lizard Point.

Cornwall! First view of the flowering cliffs west of Lizard Point.

Flowering hedgerows and cows just above the cliffs

The old life boat station at Lizard Point

Steep flowered cliffs

Cliffs and ocean views

Garden path through Pistil Meadow

Shingled cove

Cliffs to the west

Looking toward Pentreath and Kynance

Holsear Cove

Lizard Lighthouse in the middle distance

After walking along the cliffs to the west, we returned to Lizard Point and looked at the old life boat station in Polpeor Cove.

Polpeor Cove with lifeboat station; Lizard Lighthouse in the distance

We continued walking east toward the lighthouse above Poltream Cove

Lizard Lighthouse

Looking back at Lizard Point.

The trail turned north to take in views to the east across Housel Bay.

Across the bay is a house where Marconi set up one of the first wireless telegraph (radio) stations in 1900, transmitting signals to the Isle of Wight, 180 miles away.

Red campion

I found a bench here and just sat for a while, admiring all the colors of the ocean water: purple – indigo – turquoise – teal – marine – navy – chartreuse.

This is a place I hope to return to someday.

Rowland Basin from Catherine Creek, Washington (18-51)

November 20, 2018 / margaretquilts / 1 Comment

Trails of Rowland Basin and Rowland Wall, 11/17/2018

We decided to explore some new to us trails below Rowland Wall. From the Catherine Creek trail head, we walked west to the lower part of the wall, then took a side trail that drops over the cliffs, down the scree slope, and then winds uphill in the valley above Rowland Lake. We traversed oak woodlands, grassy slopes and lava fields. There are historic ‘Indian pits’, associated with native peoples, in this area. We found a spot on the upper grassy slopes for lunch, then continued upward on the looping switchbacks of the ‘Shoestring’ trail, hoping to find the connecting trail to upper Rowland Wall. The trails in this area are not marked, and switch back and forth in tight loops that are a bit confusing – constructed for cyclists. We decided to turn back the way we came for a 5 mile, 1000 foot day, a beautiful day on the trail. (#61)

Looking back at the trailhead, and eastward up the Columbia River.

Bitterroot foliage on a rocky outcrop where there will be lovely flowers in spring.

Looking over Rowland Wall into Rowland Basin, where our hike will take us.

Looking west toward Rowland Lake and the Columbia River.

Our trail below the cliff,

Continuing down the scree slope,

Through the oak woodland in the low angle November light.

Hiking up the basin beneath Rowland Wall.

Looking back down the trail.

Continuing up – looking west toward the Labyrinth.

An ‘Indian pit’ in the lava field.

Continuing upward.

Rowland Wall

Another view east before we hike through more woods.

Then out of the woods, onto the high grassy slope where we would stop for lunch.

Traversing the bike loops on the grassy slope – Mt Hood is a faint shadow above the two oak trees on the horizon.

Eastward view from our lunch stop.

Closer view of Mt Hood beyond the oak trees.

Rowland Basin on the way down in afternoon light.

Rowland Wall

The orchards east of Mosier, Oregon, and oil train waiting near Rowland Lake.

Last look over the wall before returning to the trail head. Our lunch stop was on the bare gold slope in the middle of the picture.

Knitting

I finished two more round cloths in the last couple of weeks.

St Agnes to Perranporth, Cornwall, Poldark Country (18-50)

November 15, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Day 9, Friday, May 4th, 2018

We drove from our lodging in Fowey to Perranporth on the north coast of Cornwall. Dan planned a one way hike on the Southwest Coast Path from St Agnes back to Perranporth. A low cloud ceiling remained for the entire day, but it wasn’t too cold – good hiking weather. We passed broad moors, coastal cliffs, beaches and tin mines. Some of the scenes for the BBC Poldark series were filmed in this general area.

Carpark at the beach in Perranporth.

We parked in Perranporth and took the local bus to St Agnes – a bit of an adventure in itself, because the bus was running almost an hour late. The driver very kindly made sure we got out at the right stop in St Agnes, so at 11 AM, we were finally our way for what would be a ten mile hike, with 1500 feet of total elevation gain, as we walked up and down the coastal cliffs.

We walked through St Agnes,

A street sign for Harry Potter fans

along some farm roads, then uphill to St Agnes Beacon.

First view of the coast over the field

Our track to the north

St Agnes Beacon ahead, beyond the gorse

Lunch stop at St Agnes Beacon

On a clear day the views must be incredible!

Land of counterpane beyond.

Location finder on the Beacon.

We continued downhill toward St Agnes Head – a promontory on the coast.

Looking west…

Looking east…

From St Agnes Head we turned east on the SW Coast Path toward Perranporth. The trail stayed above the high cliffs until we reached the descent to Trevaunance Cove.

Gorse along the trail

Hedgerows

First glimpse of the beach ahead

Old tin mine

The turquoise blue water of Cornwall

Flower-lined path

There were so many flowers along the path…

Thrift

Scilla

Primroses

Scilla

We looked down to Trevaunance Cove, noticing the standup paddlers in the water.

Trevaunance and Trevellas Coves

Stand up paddle boarders

Tin mines on the cliffs above Trevaunance Cove

Stairway down the cliffs

Our path along the beach and rocks to Trevellas Cove

Fortunately, the tide was out. We walked across the beach, then picked our way over and around the rocky outcrops to Trevellas Cove, enjoying the tide pooling along the way.

Flowers blooming on the cliffs

Devonian metamorphic rocks

Limpets

Seaweed

View back to the village at Trevaunance Cove

Tidepools

Seaweed and limpets

The rocky gap on the beach at low tide

Looking back again

More tide-swept sea weed

Pebbly sand and seaweed

Ebb tide channel

We crossed over into Trevellas Cove and could see our path up the cliffs.

Looking back to our beach crossing

Another look back

Continuing east toward Perranporth, the next section of the SW Coast Path again stayed high on the cliffs with views down to beaches.

Waterfall

Beach caves and arches

We passed old tin mines and tailing piles,

Mine opening in distant cliff

Covered mining site

Closer view of the cliff mine

Ruins of WWII bunkers and an airfield are also along the trail.

Plenty of flowers and spectacular geological outcrops.

Sea thrift and folded Devonian metamorphic rocks

Eventually, we reached views of the beaches of Perranporth.

View toward Perranporth from Cligga Head

Last look back to the west

Bird covered rocks

We were glad to wind our way down the cliffs to the car park in Perranporth after a long, beautiful hike.

The Jaguar GPS led us back to Fowey by the narrowest and hedgerow-bound of winding back roads – we learned from this day to ignore the B roads with lots of numbers. The GPS route would recalculate to stay on A or low number B roads if we ignored turn directions when we didn’t like the look of the road. The new route might be longer in miles, but shorter in time and less scary in narrowness and visibility. Also, the signs that say “Weak Bridge Ahead” are a little disconcerting, though we were sure they meant heavy trucks, not passenger cars. You never know though. Some of the buildings and hedgerows certainly date back to the time of Poldark. Roads that are about two feet from the doors of farm houses cannot really be meant for through travelers. We needed a smarter GPS or more experienced operator. It would have helped if we had looked at the overview map of the route before embarking, but the GPS in the car did not seem to offer this option in a practical way. I personally prefer to preplan my routes with more diligence, but sometimes when traveling, and changing plans on the fly, on the whims of the weather, we wing it – with the consequences of the narrow hedgerow and the blind corners. After this day I used my Google Maps Iphone App and did not use the Jaguar GPS though she did have a charming British accent and manners, directing us, “Please, at the next roundabout, take the second exit toward St Agnes.”

We enjoyed making ourselves a Mexican dinner back at the cottage.

Coyote Wall, WA (18-49)

November 7, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

As we drove toward Hood River to cross the bridge to the Washington side of the gorge, we noticed fire burning high on the slopes above White Salmon. We realized it must be a controlled/slash burn, not a wildfire, thankfully.

Little Moab and Old Ranch Road Trails, November 3, 2018 (#60)

We walked up Coyote Wall about half way on an overcast day.

Walking along Old Highway 8 to the trail up Coyote Wall.

First view to the east – a different perspective on the fruit orchards east of Mosier from our Catherine Creek hike last week.

Approaching one of the viewpoints over Coyote Wall on the Little Moab Trail.

Looking over the wall and up. The sky is a bit smoky from the fire above White Salmon, just over the hill.

We begin to see the shoulders of Mt Hood under clouds to the south.

Junction of Little Moab and Old Ranch Road trails. We are headed up.

Lunchtime view to the east

Lunchtime view to the south

Lunchtime view up Coyote Wall

We decided to head down, as the wind was picking up and blowing more smoke toward us. 4.3 miles, 1000 feet for the day.

Looking back up to where we had been on Coyote Wall from the trail head.

Lookback:

Comparing fall and spring views:

View to the east, October 2018

April 2017

View toward Mt Hood, October 2018

April 2017

Knitting

I am blocking the Ivy Cardigan, and I finished another round dishcloth.

Neighborhood

The fall colors have been a pleasure to walk through – my camera can’t quite catch them and yet I try.

A Crisp Fall Day at Catherine Creek, WA (18-48)

November 1, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Catherine Creek Arch Trail, October 27, 2018 (#59)

We walked a loop above the arch and part way up Tracy Hill, then dropped down into the oak and big leaf maple-lined canyon in front of the arch. Windless day, river like glass, slanting sun through the clouds enhancing the fall colors.

First stop near the trail head – looking across the Columbia River to the fruit orchards east of Mosier, Oregon.

Our path along the far side of the canyon.

Walking upward toward Tracy Hill.

Looking over dry flower heads back to the river.

Lunch view from the knob just north of the arch.

Lunch view to the eastern gorge, Rowena Plateau and Memaloose Island.

From our high point on Tracy Hill the lowest shoulders of Mt Hood can be seen under the clouds.

Heading down to Catherine Creek.

Orange oak trees, yellow big leaf maple trees.

The pinnacles of Catherine Creek.

We walk by the Arch….

And continue our way back to the trail head, feeling refreshed, before heading back to the rest of our rainy weekend in Portland. 3 miles, 600 feet.

On our way to the hike today, we stopped at the Women’s Forum Viewpoint on the Historical Columbia River Highway to look at the view of Vista House, Beacon Rock and beyond.

Knitting

The back and one and a half front panels of the Ivy Cardigan.

Fall Colors at Home

Trapper Creek Wilderness, WA (18-46)

October 23, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

October 20, 2018 – Observation Peak and Sister Rocks

We hiked up and down this roller coaster trail, through autumn light and sun, to viewpoints of the surrounding Cascade mountain peaks rising above a bluish haze.

7 miles, 1575 feet (#58)

Driving to the trailhead on Dry Creek Road we passed through a tunnel of yellow trees.

View through the front windshield…

Bunchberry and huckleberry along the trail provided some color.

At the top of the first ridge, the views from the rocky outcrop are to Mt Rainier and Mt Adams.

Mt Rainier

We then took the side trail to Sister Rocks, with a great view of Mt St Helens and Mt Hood. Lunch stop.

Dan atop Sister Rock; Soda Peaks on the left.

My shadow and Mt St Helens

Closer view

Mt Hood

The intermediate high point on the Sister Rocks spur provides an excellent view of Mt Adams.

Mt Adams

Returning to the main trail, we headed down hill, then back up to the views from Observation Peak of four tall volcanoes rising above the forested landscape.

Mt St Helens, Mt Rainier, and Mt Adams from Observation Peak.

Mt St Helens and the Mt Margaret backcountry

Mt Rainier

Mt Adams

Mt Hood

As we departed Observation Peak I spotted what may be the last blooming aster of the year.

Mirror Lake

The lake is at the base of Vista Point in Rooster Rock State Park. As we drive through the Columbia River Gorge on I-84 we sometimes see swans here in winter. This morning, no swans, but the fog was lifting poetically, so we stopped to look at the light.

Knitting

Another dishcloth finished, and I frogged and am reknitting the front of the Ivy Lace Cardigan.

Owl Point and Hoyt Arboretum, OR (18-45)

October 17, 2018October 17, 2018 / margaretquilts / Leave a comment

Owl and Alki Points and the Rockpile from Vista Ridge October 12, 2018

This was our first hike on the Owl Point trail, which follows the northern edge of Vista Ridge and leads to views of the north side of Mt Hood and the Clear Branch valley below. Much of the lower elevation landscape was burned by the Dollar Lake Fire in 2011.

The first views from the 0.3 mile trail junction display the luminous seed heads of abundant fireweed at the edge of the burn zone.

Pearly everlasting and fireweed

The trail leads along the ridge, mostly through forest with a few viewpoint and meadow openings.

A meadow

Fungus along the trail

Beargrass and huckleberry

The first major viewpoint along the trail is called The Rockpile:

Approaching The Rockpile

Dan at The Rockpile

We went on a short way to Owl Point where we had lunch and signed in at the trail register.

Owl Point

Dan at Owl Point

The next views are a panorama from northeast to south:

Upper Hood RIver valley in the distance

Laurance Lake

Continuing south – Clear Branch Valley

Lower flanks of Mt Hood and the Dollar Lake burn

Mt Hood

Leaving Owl Point:

Finally we went on to Alki Point which let us look north into Washington on this brilliant blue day.

Alki Point – first Mt Rainier (behind Mt Defiance) and Mt Adams come into view.

Farther out on the point, we can also see Mt St Helens.

On our return, we stopped at the 0.8 mile overlook with a better sun angle. The one yellow tree, possibly a larch, stood out in front of The Pinnacle in the grey foothills leading up to the mountain.